The Lycian Way: Fethiye to Patara Beach

Region One

Fethiye - Patara Beach North Side

Region Two ->

Day 1: Fethiye - Ölüdeniz

Distance: 12km/7mi

Elevation Gain: 581m

Elevation Loss: 535m

Max Elevation: 438m

My Lycian Way experience began by waking up in Antalya airport where I spent a luxurious night on my roll mat and sleeping bag. AYT stays open all night and nobody seemed to mind me slumming it there, however everything is closed and there are only a handful of seats.

From the airport, there is a direct bus to Antalya Şehir Otogarı and from here you can catch a coach to Fethiye. They depart roughly every hour and only cost me 38 Lira, which was pretty reasonable for a 3-4 hour journey. There are a couple of family style restaurants inside where you can get your first taste of Turkish breakfast and coffee.

Once you arrive in Fethiye, take this opportunity to visit a big supermarket for any last minute items as this will be your only chance to shop in a large town until you arrive in Antalya. Also go get yourself a nice meal to start your hike off right and remember to take out plenty of cash as Turkey is not a particularly card friendly country.

The Trail begins at the Amyntas Rock Tombs which are well worth an explore as well as the ruins of a castle overlooking the town. After you're done exploring, follow the road up the hill where you will find a spring to fill up at. Keep your eyes peeled for these type of water sources as it's what you will be surviving off for the next 3 weeks. This flowing water is perfectly fine to drink straight, however the consistency of people I met that wouldn't was very surprising. If you are nervous then add a chlorine tablet.

After the spring you will join a track that turns into an old, unused road that I thought was pretty cool. Follow this until you meet back up with the tarmac and descend into the town of Kayaköy which forbiddingly sits in the shadow of the Ghost Town above. Make your way up the eerie, abandoned streets, taking your time to enjoy where you are and the long journey ahead of you.

After you've climbed up out of the town you will be back in the forest until you reach your final destination of Ölüdeniz. Stay vigilant as there were new roads being built across the path so navigating took some thought and at one point you reach a fork in the road that has four options. Just take an educated guess, keeping the coast in view. There is an alternative path out of the Ghost town which takes you down to Ölüdeniz beach instead of the cliffs overlooking it. Consider what time you will arrive as to which route you take as I had a perfect sunset whilst chilling on the rocks far above the coastline. Twas amazing.

I stayed for far too long watching the sunset so hastily made camp in the tress however if you were to enter the town below you wouldn't have difficulty finding somewhere to sleep. It is a very popular destination on the southern coast and has a bit of a party scene.

Water

There are two springs on the road up out of Fethiye village. It is a good idea to fill up as there aren't many opportunities this day.
In Kayaköy you can buy water from the stalls however if you were to arrive late then they could be closed.

Food & Shops

Fethiye has a fantastic selection of restaurants as well as a big supermarket that could come in useful for any last minute items.
There are a number of restaurants and even a few wine bars in Kayaköy as it's a fairly popular destination.

Accomodation & Camping

I wild camped in the forrest above Ölüdeniz, just around the corner from the viewpoint overlooking the beach. There are however loads of hotels in this town as it's extremely popular and well know.
There is a good camping spot in a clearing of trees 2.3kms along the trail out of Kayaköy.

Dangers

No real dangers today other than the small sections where you walk on the road. There are also a fair few bee hives however they are easily avoided.

Day 2: Ölüdeniz - Kabak

Distance: 22km/14mi

Elevation Gain: 1,095m

Elevation Loss: 1,345m

Max Elevation: 804m

Day Two marks as the Official start of the Lycian Way, where you will see the recognisable sign from Insta. Take your selfies and ceremoniously walk under the arch ... and then head off to the right cos the sign just leads to a thick growth of bushes. Up to this point, I was pretty confused as I thought I must have missed it in Fethiye.

The Trail begins easy, with a gradual incline with the gorgeous coastline views to your right, however it quickly becomes a loose, steep battle with the hill. There isn't much shade and is one hell of a smack in the face as to the ascents to come. Make sure you have plenty of water for the next 6-7km as there isn't a spring until you reach the top. That being said, don't carry too much as you don't want any extra weight on the climb up.

You will likely bump into lots of other hikers at this point as it is a very popular trail in the area and as such, it's like a buffet bar once you've reached the top, with pancake places scattered around. I hadn't had breakfast by this point so the cold water and hot food was most welcome.

From here you follow the cliff side roads for a bit, passing a number of springs and quiet villages. It is easy walking and you will likely make good time. Continue on until you pass by Butterfly Beach, far to your right, which you can detour to, however Kabak beach at the end of the day is pretty tasty, so depends on how much time you have.

The rest of the day is mostly downhill, with a fair amount of cover in the trees until you reach Kabak Beach. I stopped off at Mamma's Hostel at the top of the village for some great food and views of the beach far below. I ended up arriving super earl, around 2-3 so had loads of time for sunbathing and swimming. Consider bringing a lightweight towel so you don't have to hobo it on the pebbles.

There's loads of accommodation in and around Kabak but I decided to camp at the Secret Garden which you will pass by the next day. I would definitely stop here if it's getting late as you don't want to hike the next stage in the dark and there aren't many good places to camp.

Water

Unless you head into Ölüdeniz there are no sources at the official Lycian Way starting point.
There are no water sources on the way up the hill but once you start heading downhill there are loads all the way down to Kabak Beach.

Food & Shops

Once you reach the top of the big climb out of Ölüdeniz, you will be spoilt for choice for Gözleme (Turkish flatbread) places all the way up to the small village of Kirme. There are fantastic views here and a worth while stop to just soak in where you are.
Kabak has a fair few hotels and a couple of restaurants down at the beach. I stopped at Kabak Mamma's Hostel at the top of the village, the trail goes right past. It has fantastic views, a really good atmosphere, lovely food and it was here I had my first beer of the trip.

Accomodation & Camping

I camped at the Secret Garden which is located on the right of the trail as you leave the beach. It cost 25 Lira, they had wifi, however the shower was cold.
It is illegal to camp in the forest by the town and on the beach. I did however see people disappearing around the coastline with camping gear, bbq's and food so obviously people do it.

Dangers

There are loads of bee hives along the trial.

Day 3: Kabak - Bel

Distance: 21km/13mi

Elevation Gain: 1,652m

Elevation Loss: 970m

Max Elevation: 749m

The day begins with a very steep climb out of Kabak beach through the forest. There are two route choices you can make here, indicated with a little sign with the left heading towards a waterfall and the right, the Lycian Way. Both routes meet up further along, but it did look like the waterfall route had a very steep, loose climb up to rejoin the path. Also, there is a path that hugs the cliff face all the way from Kabak Mamma's house area, if you had no interest in the extra work to reach the beach the day before.

Towards the top of the climb you will be rewarded with spectacular views of Kabak Beach on your right. At the very top there was this cute lady making tea and pancakes so I stopped for some well needed breakfast and rest. From here, continue on to Alinca village where you will find a little market to fill up on water.

After Alinca, the trail hugs the coastline and rapidly descends from the road. This section was epic, however very loose and steep so not the best idea if you're feeling tired or scared of heights. I enjoy the feeling of vertigo, so this was a very fun bit for me and would highly recommend. If this is not for you then stick to the main road and join back up with the path either at Gey or Bel, but be warned that the road does look a little further and is very exposed, with no shade.

Continue hugging the hillside, passing through goats grazing and the occasional ruin until you reach the village of Gey. There is a small family market opposite the Mosque, as well a cafe of sorts where you can get some cooked food. Once again the route follows the coastline, as is similar to before however still just as impressive.

On the final corner, you will ascend into Bel village where you will be greeted with the only spring of the day as well as two options of accommodation to pick from.

Water

There is no water until you reach the market in Alinca unless you stop by the waterfall in Kabak.
The waterfall after Alinca is dry.
There is a small shop in Gey where you can get home cooked food and supplies.

Food & Shops

At the top of the climb from Kabak beach there was a small wooden hut owned by a cute old lady serving pancakes and tea. You can't miss it as it's over the route.
I grabbed some soup and salad at the market in Gey.

Accomodation & Camping

I stayed at KILIC Pansiyon in Bel village which cost just under 100 Lira for a room, breakfast and dinner. The shower was basic and their was mo wifi however the view from the roof was incredible.
Another option that is very well reviewed is Fatma's Pansion which is located just down the road.

Dangers

The trial is really steep and loose after Alinca village.

Day 4: Bel - Patara Beach North Side

Distance: 14km/8.5mi

Elevation Gain: 385m

Elevation Loss: 1,043m

Max Elevation: 708m

This day is very chill with most of it heading down a steep, loose path overlooking the sea. It can be quite slow going depending on your ability and confidence with heights. There isn't really very much to say about this beginning as most of it is spent on the descent however once you reach the bottom and join the road you can continue on it towards the beach. The trial however heads left and goes through the trees up a steep, forest dirt road until you circle round to reach the old castle ruins of Pydnai perched on a small hill.

This last section overlooking the castle involves a fair bit of rock scrabbling and I remember it being quite slow going, however it only lasts for a couple hundred metres. Enjoy exploring the ancient walls and then head down the short distance to Patara Beach and chill on the sand.

Water

There no water until you reach Patara Beach, however there is meant to be some in Gavuragili village just before.
The two springs in the wooded area on the way to the castle are dry.

Food & Shops

No food or shops along the way.

Accomodation & Camping

I stayed at Patara Green Park and rented a little hut with other people for 100 Lira each including breakfast. This place was very disappointing and the owner had no pride in his business, the food was bad and over priced. It was just a shame as it has real potential.
He was also charging different people different prices.