Region Three
Kaş - Demre
Day 10: Kaş - Boğazcık
Distance: 21km/13mi
Elevation Gain: 841m
Elevation Loss: 558m
Max Elevation: 306m
Region three begins with a gentle up and down climb out of Kaş passing a couple of quiet beaches with spectacular sea views. Make sure to take plenty of water with you as there are no springs until you reach Üzüm Iskelesi in 12kms.
Most of the day is spent scrambling over rocks right on the coastline with the sea just to your right. I found this very enjoyable, however I did pass by several groups of people really struggling due to the rough terrain and seemly lack of a path. The popularity of this particular section means some rocks are worn smooth, so not walking where everyone else does is advisable, especially if it has been raining. There is very little shade and the reflexion from sun meant it was incredibly hot. Take this into consideration, with the slower pace and lack of springs when filling up with water in the morning.
This up and down, coastline trail continues until you reach Fakdere Mevki, where a house and camping ground is being built next to the beach. It was locked up and in need of repair when I arrived however I have read of people buying drinks there. From there, the trail turns slightly inland up a relatively steep and rough road but was still very pleasant. I did pass by a big group of about 150 hikers in a seemly endless line, completing the trail in the other direction which was interesting - no idea where they have space to camp.
The day continues with much of the same up and down path, edging in and out of the coast, passing by Üzüm Iskelesi where you will find a good flowing spring. It should be noted that there are okay camping spots dotted about for most of this day until you begin the climb up to Boğazcık. This climb is steep and lasts for about 2-3kms, is easy to navigate and has plenty of shade.
At the top, the trail joins a road where it will level out slightly until reaching the village of Boğazcık. On the right, there is Lykia Camping & Cafe, which I stopped at out of curiosity. The owner wasn't there but they had an interesting garden, nice facilities and there is a spring at the entrance. I left and continued into the village to stay at Ali PrivatePension.
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There are limited water supplies so make sure you have enough for the first 12kms until you reach Üzüm Iskelesi and remember you will be very exposed to the sun.
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A tap can be found on your arrival into Boğazcık village.
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No restaurants or shops today, other than those in Kas.
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I stayed at Ali Private Pension for 100 Lira including dinner and breakfast. It was very basic, with vegetarian meals but the portions were massive. The actual Ali guy didn't do anything but his wife was amazing and a real character. Very forceful and didn't take shit, I liked her.
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Most of the day is dotted with potential campsites, however a lot of these were too early in the day and were covered in litre and fire-stains.
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The trail is rough along the coastline, requiring you to jump from rock to rock which can be difficult with a bag. If the ground is wet then take extra care.
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There is also a lot of rubbish left where people have camped.
Day 11: Boğazcık - Gökkaya Bay
Distance: 24km/15mi
Elevation Gain: 388m
Elevation Loss: 673m
Max Elevation: 380m
Day 11 is a very enjoyable and relaxing day, beginning with a steep 6km downhill section through a shady forest that is easy to navigate. Keep going until you reach the ruins of a town which I can not find the name of. It's pretty interesting wondering through the crumbling archways and swimming over the sunken ruins. This is all located just before The Purple House which is an eco camping ground and seemed to have a nice vibe to it, if a little basic. Take the opportunity to fill up your water and grab a snack here or continue for another km until you reach Yoruk Ramazan which is a cafe, boat house style place, serving food. In October it seemed a little run down however this could have been because they had packed up for the season.
From here, it's a matter of following the coastline on a very flat but crisscrossing path all the way up to Kaleüçağız, which is a beautifully coastal village with a couple of shops, pensions and restaurants. It looked like a good location to go out for a boat ride and I was very persuaded to stay, however was just too early in the day. I did stop for some freshly cooked sea-bass and soaked in the views with a couple of beers.
The trail continues around the bay until you reach Kaleköy, the expensive twin of Kaleüçağız. Here you can explore the ruins of Simena Castle and if you've got the budget, a very luxurious hotel for the night. If you are walking with someone, then this is the place to stop!
(Upon returning I learnt that there is a great boat trip from here to Kekova Island which is the location of the underwater ruins of a Lycian settlement and tombs)
After you have climbed the walls and taken some pics, join back up with the trail, leaving the castle the same way you entered. The route now heads slightly inland, passing by small family farms and a large watchtower on your right until you arrive at the Smugglers Inn. This place servers alcohol, has a shallow swimming area and could be somewhere to think about camping near. It was getting late and I'm a miserable bastard so kept walking, hoping for a quiet place to camp.
The path continues on the coast, heading into Gökkaya Bay, which was populated with sailing ships. I spotted an abandoned farm house and set up camp just outside of it, facing east, in preparation for a tasty sunrise.
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There is only one free water source today which is located just after Kaleüçağız and just before the detour up to Simena Castle.
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Yoruk Ramazan is meant to be a restaurant and camping ground, however it was closed up and need of repair in October 2019. Possible finished for that season.
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Kaleüçağız has plenty of shops and restaurants to pick from. Despite it's touristy feel, the prices were normal.
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Smugglers Inn towards the end of the day is a bar and swimming area.
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The Purple House is an eco camping ground that seemed to have a nice vibe to, if a little basic. I heard mixed reviews from people I met on the trail, however everybody agreed it was too expensive which does seem to happen with eco places.
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Don't rely on getting your water from the camping grounds and bar as they may be closed.
Day 12: Gökkaya Bay - Demre
Distance: 10km/6mi
Elevation Gain: 473m
Elevation Loss: 484m
Max Elevation: 127m
After a fantastic nights sleep, day 12 began with a gorgeous sunrise and morning swim in the sea. After a quick pack down, I got back on the trail, which heads slightly further inland, through goat farms and thin groves of bushes.
I noticed on the map that there is an alternative route to Demre from the village of Kapaklı, which would be worth an investigation if you have the time. In Kapaklı there is a cafe and tap outside however it was closed as the season had finished in October.
Head downhill from the village until you reach a narrow pebble beach and then join the path that hugs the coastline all the way to the long stretch of beach at Çayağzı which can boast the location of the old harbour of Andriake. You will likely bump into a retired fisherman living in a hut on the western side of the beach who kindly invited me in for coffee. On the eastern side you will find a couple of restaurants and camping grounds.
From here the trail joins a tarmac road into Demre. From where my GPS stops, a kind gentlemen stopped to give me a lift into the centre. There are a fair few number of hotels and restaurants here so take you pick and rest up for the next stage of the journey. It is a good opportunity to get a shave and stock up at supermarkets.
I ended up arriving here before midday so had loads of time to kill. I would highly recommend visiting Myra, which is located about a km up the road. It's a good idea to do it now so you can take your time and not bite into the next day, which is sure to be a tough one.
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The only source of the day was a tap on the outside of the cafe in Kapaklı.
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There are a couple of restaurants at Çayağzı, on the east side of the beach.
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Demre has many restaurants and markets so take this time to eat well.
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I stayed at Bayraktar Konağı for 120 Lira including breakfast. It is a really cool, wooden building, with kind owners and I would recommend it. The only downside was they didn't serve breakfast until 9 and it wasn't very quick, so I ended up leaving later than I had planned. The food was really good though.
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I saw a snake whilst walking along the coast, however this could happen nearly anywhere on the trail.
